Dressing the Elite Hardback Dressing the Elite Hardback
Author: Susan Vincent
Published by Berg Publishers
Page extent: 320pp
Format: Hardback
Additional Blurbs: 26 bw illus  bibliog  index

Clothing occupies a complex and important position in relation to human experience. Not just utilitarian, dress gives form to a society's ideas about the sacred and secular, about exclusion and inclusion, about age, beauty, sexuality and status. In Dressing the Elite, the author explores the multiple meanings that garments held in early modern England.

Clothing was used to promote health and physical well-being, and to manage and structure, life transitions. It helped individuals create social identities and also to disguise them. Indeed, so culturally powerful was the manipulation of appearances that authorities sought its control. Laws regulated access to the dress styles of the elite, and through less formal strategies, techniques of disguise were kept as the perquisites of the powerful.

Focusing on the elite, the author argues that clothing was not just a form of cultural expression but in turn contributed to societal formation. Clothes shaped the configurations of the body, affected spaces and interactions between people and altered the perceptions of the wearers and viewers. People put on and manipulated their garments, but in turn dress also exercised a reverse influence. Clothes made not just the man and the woman, but also the categories of gender itself. Topics covered include cross-dressing, sumptuary laws, mourning apparel and individual styles.             

Contents:
Introduction
When I am in Good Habitt
History and Dress   
The Meaning of Clothing and the Clothing of Meaning in Early Modern England

Chapter 1 Fashioning Appearances   
The Wardrobe - Men 
The Wardrobe - Women   
Reviewing the Wardrobe  

Chapter 2 Addressing the Body   
Outwardly for Defence - Inwardly for Cleanliness Bodily Transitions    
Clothing Grief  

Chapter 3 Clothes Make the Man   
His Garments Helpe Him to bee Counted Such a One Godly Apparel    
The Way of Wearing - Hat Honour   
To See and be Seen  
Increasing Visibility - Portraits and Livery   Punishment and Shame  
A Very Good Fancy in Making Good Clothes  

Chapter 4 None Shall Wear   
Dress and the Law   
Economic Regulation   
Moral Regulation    
Social Regulation   
Deformity and Change  - Discipline and Display    Doomed to Failure?  

Chapter 5        
Them and Us, He or She?
The Rogue   
Being and Seeming    
Actors and Courtiers    
Women to Men    
Cross-Dressing   

Conclusion      
From Riches to Rags   

Bibliography  

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